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Friday, June 19, 2009

Printie Making Tutorial

Here's the long promised "tutorial" and explanation of imaging terms:

So let's start with some imaging terminology:
A pixel is a tiny block of color and is an image's most basic building block. A digital image comprises thousands or millions of individual pixels. One million pixels equal one megapixel; therefore, a 3.1-megapixel digital camera can take photographs that contain more than 3 million pixels.
The more pixels an image contains, the greater its detail. It's not a measurement. The only physically fixed dimensions that an image has are the number of pixels across/wide and down/high in that image (eg 900 x 700 pixels). When you "enlarge" or "shrink", your image you're merely deciding what size to make each pixel.

Though often used interchangeably, pixels per inch (PPI) and dots per inch (DPI) are technically not the same thing. PPI refers to the number of pixels found in one inch of an image. Typically these days an inch holds 150 pixels or better. DPI, on the other hand, refers to the amount of resolution a printer is capable of outputting. Printers use dots of individual different coloured inks to create an image; the more dots a printer can produce per square inch, the better quality its output.
The term "resolution" refers to the amount of information a digital or printed image file contains, usually measured in terms of how many pixels appear in each unit of width or height. Generally, the higher an image's resolution, the more detailed and crisp it will appear on a printed page.

Still with me?

You typically need some sort of software like Photoshop, or Paint Shop Pro to attach a specific dpi value to a file that you want to print. If you don't have anything at the moment & aren't looking to pay for another program, then pick up one of the free editors like Paint.NET or PhotoScape
These photo editing softwares allow you to set "real world" dimensions.

Since I've used Photoshop since its inception (its at version 9 now, I believe), I'm a bit of an image geek who has troubles explaining procedures to people who aren't familiar or have never used an image editing software...so I'll explain how I do printies & hope you'll keep up with me.

There are 2 ways to get the image to your computer: you either scan the product in your printer or photograph it. This way your image is full sized, large & detailed. If I take a scanned image at its highest printer-allowable resolution, I can ask my software to shrink it to 1/12th while keeping the image resolution to the same setting as when I scanned it....very important!

If I've used my camera to take the image....usually because the item was too large for my printer to scan....I take numerous photos of each portion of, say my huggies diaper box; cut out the background, reduce to a manageable size (using the same size of each of the portions) and paste each part of the box (on a different layer) using a new file. Layers allow me to correct mistakes or move things about without having to start all over again. A 1to12 scale means that every real size inch is a 0.083 doll house inch. So if I know what size my real size huggies box is I can calculate what size my printie should be. When I adjust the physical size, Photoshop automatically adjusts the resolution to compensate, and vice versa. For instance, if I decrease the physical size it'll increase the resolution. Pixel dimensions don't actually change while you're doing all these manipulations. The physical size can be whatever you want, as long as the DPI changes in tandem. The number of pixels don't change--only their size.

Set your printer to use best quality and select the correct paper type, matte, glossy or whatever you're using. Also remember to keep the resolution set to its best level. On some printers this may be the saturation level.

Here's what Tarapiglet of the DollHouse at Pooh Corner has to say on the subject:

When starting a paint or photo program you start with a blank canvas which you usually specify the size of. 816 by 1056 equals one standard paper size. Apply the ruler on the program so you can see if you are scaling correctly. You want to start with a large and detailed image. Generally the bigger the better because you'll want the printer to pick up on every little detail.
You'll notice if you make your canvas size 816 x 1056 and resize the picture to 2" x 3" to fit a picture frame you get a so so print. The tip is resize 300% or 400% the canvas size and match the image size to that degree. So your 816 x 1056 canvas becomes 3264 x 4224, which are those numbers duplicated by 4 or 400%.Say I want my print to be 2 inches wide x 3 inches long when printed, that's 2 feet by 3 feet in 1" scale. I times 2 x 4, 4 being how much bigger I've times'd my canvas. That equals 8. I then divide that by 12, for the ruler. Always measure in decimals.
For example
2 1/2 would be 2.5. Always divide by 12 so you know where to match it on the paint program ruler. I get .66, now I resize my image until the 2 inch long side of the image measures .66 an inch on this huge canvas.The more pixels or details the computer and printer read the better off your prints will be.

The key to making good printies is setting your printer to the highest resolution or best quality print setting that it's capable of and using good quality either matte or glossy photo paper. You'll get more vibrant colors, crisper lines & readable text. You may want to give your printed copy a spray of clear polyurethane to make it moisture resistant & color fast but beware that not all inks accept any type of coating.

Again from Tara Piglet:
I found so far the #1 paper for making a print look like a painting is Post It Photo Paper Matte or Semi-Gloss. The Glossy paper lays the ink on thick which gives the effect of paint. The ink will smear with as little as finger sweat so handle carefully when dry. I had sucess clear nail polishing the matte and semi-gloss paper prints. For the lossy I would use a clear spray paint.

The next thing you want to invest in are detailing scissors or a sharp! xacto knife. Use a metal ruler with cork backing to prevent slipping for making paper folds that are crisp & straight. Use a fast dry glue and watch the amount of glue coming out of the bottle. You may want to use a toothpick or small artists paint brush to apply the glue with. Last but not least tweezers are great for holding glued folds & seams shut.

Now see, wasn't that easy......?

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

a hmmmm moment

Looking out my window this morning, I couldn't believe my eyes. I thought it had snowed during the night! I'd slept with the window open & it hadn't seemed that cold.
But I could definitely see bits of lingering snow on the driveway:
On closer inspection, I realized it's those darn old cottonwoods at it again.
Now before you get the idea that I despise my neighbors, let me hasten to add that cottonwoods are nasty trees that spew fluff everywhere at this time of year trying to reproduce themselves. ...And if that weren't bad enough, they also sprout up thru roots that branch everywhere, for miles it seems, causing you to trip over the roots & causing havoc with garden weeding because the sprouts are nearly impossible to pull out. If all that weren't bad enough, they're also a shortlived tree.....altho not short lived enough for me....whose branches easily snap in a winter's gale to land on any available roof.

We in Ontario have gone green....maybe not always for the right reasons...but green nevertheless!
Most stores here no longer supply free groceries bags with each purchase. In every check-out line you will now hear women complain that once again they have forgotten their canvas carry bags and need to buy the traditional plastic ones. Are the stores really using the nickle they collect per bag for charitable donations?? .....or have we been dinged yet again!

We've also banned pesticides. For years, everyone would spread tons of fertilizer on their lawns, and copious amounts of water in an effort to outdo the Jones next door for the prestigious claim to the greenest lawn. Then complain about the length of time & effort it took to cut their mini paradise. Here's a photo of our lawn leading down to the lake:
When we lived in the city, I used to dig up all the dandelions; we have too much property to do that now. To go along with the yellow dandelions, there are little red flowers coming up, called I believe, Devils Paintbrush. This is one Green effect I'm enjoying.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Multi-tasking Computer desk Tutorial

As you all know, I love using Michael's hutches. Having heard several rumors that they're being discontinued, I've guaranteed my supply. At last count, I now own 14.
And I'm sure you also know that the easiest way to take them apart, is to warm the glue in the microwave. But I'll bet you didn't know the length of time between when the glue becomes pliable & the wood singes: it is the moment before you return to the kitchen!

Having taken my burnt Michael's hutch bottom apart, I decided that it wouldn't suit what I wanted afterall.

So taking the CPU, I drew a box on paper to fit around it. Then I measured my own chair & added 2 dollhouse inches to my box. Add the thickness of 2 pieces of wood & the width of the Michael's door to the other end. This makes my desk 3-7/8 inches in length. On the left side the depth is 1-3/8", allowing the CPU to just peek out. On the right, the desk depth is 1-1/4".
The Michael's hutch feet were a nice shape. I could have used them directly but decided against it as my kitchen still had that lingering eau de cologne odor of charred wood....I reproduced them from a craft stick: they are 1" x 7/8".
I exacto knifed the feet, used wood glue and attached them to the bottom of my desk, leaving them to cure long enough to feed Luna & Kitty. Luna gets a home cooked meal each evening!
The height of my own worktable is 27-1/2"; Kens desk is 25 tall. This means the computer desk height should be at least 2" in height. Deduct 2x the thickness of your wood (either desk side) from the length; deduct the height of the feet & desk bottom from the height. This made the back of my desk 1-1/2" x 3-5/8". Make sure that your cut piece is square. Again sand all cut edges.
Now cut the 2 sides: on the left, your side should measure: 1-12" x 1-3/8"; the right side should be 1-1/2" x 1-1/4". Cut another piece 1-1/2" x 1-1/8". This will be used to complete the cabinet. Again sand. Remove your T-square from your keyboard before your half-finished tutorial erases....and glue the 3 sides & the back to your desk bottom.
Ensure that your door will fit. If you want to show the door in an open position, add a shelf....as my desk will sit in a sealed roombox, I've no need for it. Allow glue to dry while you hang out a load of laundry.
Cut a top (1-3/8" x 3-7/8") and glue on. As it's 9pm & I've run out of household tasks to do...or care to do this late, use rubber bands while the glue dries. For your sliding keyboard tray, calculate where the keyboard should sit; allow enough room for the mouse unless you will be using a laptop. Measure the depth of your keyboard, in my case 7/8" & cut a notch on either end. Now find something slightly taller than the thickness of the wood that you're using for the tray plus the height of the keyboard; attach to all 4 corners of your desk. While you're waiting for the glue to dry, explain to your dog why the cat is allowed on your lap while at the same time typing with one hand & attempting to restrain the cat from walking all over the keyboard with the other.You are now ready for the final top. Contend with both animals who have left in a huff. Cut your top slightly larger on both sides & the front so it can overhang by 1/16 all the way around except for the back. Your desk is now ready to paint or stain:


Monday, June 8, 2009

Remember that ladderback chair.....well here's the reason I made it:


It was made for the Community Sale being held for Canada Day. It sounds like the entire town will be involved with sidewalk sales, live entertainment, silent auction, face painting for the little ones, BBQs and lots more. If you're near Elmvale on June 26th come on over! You'll find me selling inside the hall....

....and speaking of birthdays, today my grandson, Chris, turns 16. He may be sweet but there's a girlfriend involved so the rest of the saying doesn't apply.
We celebrated at his uncle's cottage on the Muskoka River.

It's the only place that's large enough for all of us to sleep without being stacked like firewood. The cottage actually sleeps 16 downstairs with 2 more bedrooms on the upper level. It's usually rented out this time of year so we were lucky to to be able to use it.
We had home made cake & ice cream


Chris got the lime green camera that he'd wanted. Hopefully he won't be too much like his mother who's a camera nut. Whenever we get together, she's right there taking 100s of photos...& that's not an exaggeration!
We had a huge bonfire each night with firewood gathered beforehand. And sat around it......huddling in hoodies & sweats, slathered thickly in insect repellenant. Each one of us including poor Luna, who is a hairless Chinese Crested, brought home toonie sized(CAN$2) mosquito & black fly bites. We could have stayed inside or in the screened in Muskoka room but that wouldn't have been as much fun.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CHRIS!

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Probably the most expensive dollhouse on eBay



EBay's Million Dollar Dollhouse
In the not too distant past, an exquisite mansion went on the market. This distinguished custom built home featuring a classical European architectural design was complete with the finest hand-turned woods, antique ivory, marble, sterling silver and silk tapestries. As an added bonus, each room came fully furnished with custom furniture created by internationally-renowned designers in an array of period styles. A home whose decadent and ostentatious design would surely make a member of the royal family drool, retailed for a bargain price of one million dollars. Not a bad deal in today’s real estate market. The catch? Its occupants must adhere to a mandatory height requirement of 7 inches or less.
The home I describe is actually a dollhouse. Perhaps, the world’s most expensive dollhouse and it was for sale on eBay for a mere starting bid of 6 figures. Barbara Crews wrote an article on About.com describing this abode and its astonishing million dollar price tag. The 1:12 scale dollhouse (1 inch = 1 foot) was designed and built by a collector of miniatures, who reportedly collected dollhouse miniatures for over 40+ years. This miniature home actually houses a vast collection of miniature pieces that took this collector 42 years to accrue.
The dollhouse which took over 3-1/2 years to build featured replicas of works of art popular during the 17th century through the Art Deco period (modern period). Crews tells us that, “approximately 40% of the items contained within the dollhouse are antique miniatures, several of which are centuries old.” The thousands of miniatures contained within come from all parts of the world including Istanbul, Paris and Madrid as well as many other countries.
Featuring hand-turned walnut columns and ornate decorations in the Italian Baroque design, this impressive dollhouse exhibit measures 8-1/2 feet long and 50 inches wide and rests on a solid wood oak base built in one piece. The dollhouse was designed so it can be viewed from each side and each room contains its own miniature lighting system.
Some of the extraordinary details contained within the house are mind-boggling. Over 56 styles of miniature chairs, a miniature table with over 1,000 pieces of inlaid wood, a collection of tiny guns, knives, swords and medieval weaponry made by jewelry makers who are also miniaturists, and a complete boxed manicure tool set with parts that actually move. The tiniest set of china known in the world today is displayed on a table measuring 1-1/4” long. The house contains many more miniature items made of hand blown glass, antique ivory, silver and other precious materials. The spectacular miniature furniture and accessories contained within this masterpiece are too numerous to list here, but were crafted by the finest miniature artisans known to our time. You can read the specifics about this remarkable antique dollhouse collection here.
So, what was the ultimate result of this auction listing on eBay? With a starting price of $400,000, this auction reportedly closed with no takers. Rumor has it the seller has taken the home off the market as they contemplate a short sale.

More Contests & Freebies


Enter to win a FREE Real Good Toys Dollhouse Kit at Zoolabees.com!

Sweepstakes Instructions & Official Rules:
1. Prize includes Alison Jr. MDF dollhouse kit manufactured by Real Good Toys.


2. No purchase necessary. Complete the sweepstakes entry form below and hit submit. One entry per person.3. Double your chances of winning! Go to https://zoolabees.com/index.php?main_page=login and register for a user account (one account per person). If you are currently a registered user of Zoolabees.com, please send us an e-mail at customerservice@zoolabees.com with the current registered user name on your account. Upon verification, we will submit your second entry. Please note that you must also submit the sweepstakes entry form below in order to participate in this sweepstakes.


4. This sweepstakes will run June 2, 2009 through June 30, 2009 and is open to individual legal residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia. The last day to enter is June 30, 2009. A winner will be randomly selected from all eligible participants and notified by e-mail on July 1, 2009. Prize to be awarded within 1 week of notification. Return of any prize notification as undeliverable will result in disqualification and selection of an alternate winner.


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Contests & Freebies

Monthly cane sampler contest at Betty Hagen's blog starting this month! Find out more at: http://live-mini.blogspot.com